The ABCs of INCI

The INCI list (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) is used to indicate the ingredients in cosmetic products. It can sometimes be difficult to decipher, but it is extremely important in guaranteeing user safety, enabling them to make informed choices, complying with legal obligations and maintaining confidence in the cosmetics industry. Here are its functions:
 

1. Transparency and consumer safety: The list of ingredients enables consumers to know exactly what they are applying to their skin. This is essential to avoid products containing substances that are potentially allergenic or irritating for certain people.
    
2. Identification of allergies and sensitivities: Certain ingredients can cause allergic reactions or skin irritations in some people. By providing this information, manufacturers enable users to make informed choices and avoid ingredients to which they may be sensitive.
    
3. Compliance with legal regulations: Many countries impose strict laws on the labelling of cosmetic products. These laws require a complete list of ingredients to ensure compliance with safety and quality standards. This also makes it possible to control the presence of prohibited or regulated ingredients.
    
4. Traceability and responsibility: In the event of a health problem or quality defect linked to a product, the list of ingredients enables health authorities to trace the origin of the problem and take appropriate action. It also enables manufacturers to hold themselves accountable for the products they put on the market.
    
5. Personal preferences and choices: Some consumers may prefer to use products without certain ingredients (such as parabens, sulfates or products of animal origin), or on the contrary, seek out specific ingredients for particular needs (such as hyaluronic acid for hydration, or natural oils to nourish the skin).
    
6. Composition information: By listing ingredients, consumers can get an idea of the product’s formulation. For example, a product containing essential oils or plant extracts may indicate a more natural or organic character, while a product with silicone could be perceived differently in terms of texture and usage.

Ingredients are categorized according to their function in the product. Here are the main categories of ingredients found in the INCI list:

1. Cleaning agents (Surfactants):
   These ingredients are used to clean and remove impurities. Examples: Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
    
2. Moisturizers (humectants):
   They help maintain skin or hair moisture. Examples: Glycerine, Hyaluronic acid.
    
3. Emollients:
   These ingredients bring softness and flexibility to skin or hair. Examples: Dimethicone, Vegetal oils (argan oil, jojoba oil).
    
4. Solvents:
   Used to dissolve other ingredients in a formulation. Examples: Water, Alcohol.
    
5. Preservatives:
   Used to prevent microbial contamination and extend product shelf life. Examples: Phenoxyethanol, Parabens.
    
6. Colourants:
   These ingredients add colour to products. Examples: CI 42090 (Blue), CI 19140 (Yellow).
    
7. Fragrances (Perfumes):
   Used to give products a pleasant scent. Examples: Perfume, Limonene (natural constituent of perfume).
    
8. Texturizing agents:
   Used to modify the viscosity of a product. Examples: Carbomer, Xanthan Gum.
    
9. Sun filters:
   Used in sun protection products to protect the skin from UV rays. Examples: Avobenzone, Octinoxate.
    
10. Antioxidants:
    These ingredients protect the skin from free radicals and prevent aging. Examples: Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid), Vitamin E (Tocopherol).
     
11. Soothing and repairing agents:
    Help soothe irritated skin and promote repair. Examples: Aloe Vera, Panthenol.
     
12. Acids and exfoliants:
    These ingredients help remove dead skin cells and promote skin renewal. Examples: Salicylic acid, Glycolic acid.
     
13. Specific actives:
    These are ingredients designed to treat specific skin or hair problems. Examples: Retinol, Collagen, Biotin.

Each ingredient on the INCI list is generally listed according to its concentration in the product, with the ingredients in the greatest quantity at the top of the list.
 

Ingredients to avoid in the INCI
Some ingredients may be controversial because of their potentially harmful effects on health or the environment. When deciphering the INCI, look out for the following ingredients:

• Parabens: These chemical preservatives, such as Methylparaben and Propylparaben, are often used to extend the shelf life of products. However, they have been linked to hormonal disruption and other adverse effects.
   
• Sulfates: Sulfates, such as Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES), are harsh foaming agents commonly used in cleansing products. They can dry out skin and hair, particularly in people with sensitive skin.
   
• Phthalates: These chemicals, often used as perfume fixatives, have been linked to adverse effects on reproductive health. Phthalates may be listed under names such as “phthalate” or “DBP” in the INCI.

Prefixes and suffixes suggesting natural origin
Certain terms in the INCI suggest that the ingredient comes directly from nature:

• Extract: Plant or herb extract (e.g., Chamomilla Recutita Extract - chamomile extract)
• Oil: Vegetable oil (e.g., Ricinus Communis Oil - castor oil)
• Butter: Vegetable butter (e.g., Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter - cocoa butter)

Remain vigilant in your research… Some manufacturers may publicize the withdrawal of an ingredient with bad press, only to replace it with another that is just as harmful. The idea is to better understand what you’re using and do your research on independent sites.